Brat has been catapulted into the culinary stratosphere since opening four years ago in 2018. Tomos Parry’s stellar restaurant now sits loftily at number three in the Estrella Damm national restaurant awards. Brat’s prowess lies in the honesty of the ingredients on show - the best the British Isles has to offer, with a focus on Basque-style cooking packed full of flavour.
Plates are meant to be shared, so be sure to book with friends to avoid missing out on the plethora of amazing dishes that make up the menu.
The Menai oyster was astonishing; simply the best oyster I’ve had the pleasure to eat. Plump, almond white flesh, with an infinitely creamy finish. Think oyster burrata and you’re in the ballpark.
The grilled bread with garlic and anchovy was another standout. Served straight from the wood burning oven, our group of 4 quartered and devoured the golden dough pillow. I could have eaten 10.
Next up was the lamb chop. Super tender, with perfectly rendered fat forming a crispy, gnarled edge. Accompanied by an au jus and sweetbreads. I love to see sweetbreads on a menu but was slightly let down by these, which felt like an afterthought compared with the care put into the chop – clearly the star of the show.
Moorland beef tartare was to my mind the least impressive dish. Not much to write home about… so I won’t.
And then, we waited. After the steady stream of previous plates, there was a noticeable pause while I have to assume a shift change slowed service. Excellent company and a third bottle of wine helped pass the time until the arrival of beef sirloin and plaice with clams. Both were gobbled with gusto. The steak was expectedly juicy, with well-aged nuttiness and seasoned to perfection. The plaice was nicely roasted, its succulent sweet flesh juxtaposed with fennel and a zingy citrus vinaigrette.
The cooking at Brat was exemplary, the ingredients simple but profoundly transformed by the kiss of fire. The relaxed atmosphere is right at home in hipster mecca Shoreditch, but the laissez-faire service was a slight let-down. But really, who cares? With the right crowd and beverage selection, I’d happily spend a few hours eating my way through Brat’s spoils - with several orders of the Manai oyster and anchovy bread absolute non-negotiables.
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