Thirteenth in the National Restaurant Awards for 2022 and Best Newcomer at The Catey’s. The accolades for Fallow are impressive - and for good reason. This place is all about sustainable, well-balanced posh nosh, and is a must-visit.
We went on a Monday lunchtime, escaping the officious London blaze in the midst of an almighty heatwave. Fallow is informal and modern, with an expansive open kitchen where I could happily spend a few hours watching these guys at work.
To start, we had the corn ribs from their 'nibbles' selection. They didn’t disappoint. Dusted with spiced salt, they were delicious - think Nando’s peri-salt on steroids and you get the idea. Delectably moreish. If all veg tasted like this, I would happily go veggie. Maybe.
The mushroom parfait, which has been on the menu since they opened in 2020 was next - and, Jesus, this was amazing. Fallow boast their own mushroom growing room (which they've dubbed the 'Mushroom Treehouse') and this fungi plate was a lunchtime stand-out. Silky smooth, with intense depth of flavour from the unmistakeable umami, meaty richness of mushrooms. Served with fresh shiitake and grilled sourdough, which had been brushed with garlic, rosemary and thyme oil, and just a wisp of smokiness in the char.
Another Fallow favourite was next; a masterclass in sustainable cuisine - but not for the feint of heart. A cod's head (teeth. eyeballs. the lot) arrived at the table lacquered in a luminous Sriracha butter sauce. This warming ambrosia was punchy, but not fiery, with just a hint of acidity, the perfect foil for the cod. If you’re prepared to tackle the head with gusto, you'll be rewarded with crispy skin and unctuous meat. Digging around in a fish skull might not to be everyone’s taste but I implore you to give it a go. It’s also a testament to the sauce that we were drinking extra from the jug. Well, why not?
The dairy cow burger and middle white pork were next. The burger might be one of the best currently in London. Exceptionally potent flavour in the dry aged beef patty, cooked to a perfect medium rare with HG Walter smoked bacon and a sauce made from cucumber skin (a by-product from the rest of the menu). It’s a juicy beast and ticks all the burger boxes. The pork dish was slightly underwhelming. The crunchy crackling was delicious and the pork was cooked to a subtle blush, but the sauce had a slightly burnt bitterness. Still, I ate it all.
Finally, dessert. A nice thick slab of jiggly Chelsea tart with caramelised whey. The tart is not overly sweet, and offers a subtle funkiness coming from the whey. A nice way to end the meal and balanced to satisfy any level of sweet tooth.
Fallow thoroughly deserves the praise and accolades it has received in the past couple of years. It’s defined by delicious, sustainable cooking which respects the very best ingredients and culinary creativity. If I were to find fault, it would be that the wine list isn’t as accessible as it could be - with only four bottles below the £40 mark. It’s a minor issue and shouldn’t stop you from visiting this exceptional restaurant (although it might stop you ordering a second bottle).
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